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Bringing friends together through ritual

Hougang, once a merchant and trade hub, continues to attract people to seek nostalgia in a bowl of soup and a sip of rice wine at dawn's first light, Wang Xin reports.

By WANG XIN | China Daily | Updated: 2026-02-27 09:00
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Local residents enjoy mutton soup and rice wine at Zhou's restaurant on Jan 24 in Hougang village, Tinglin town, Shanghai's Jinshan district. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Zhou started his business about a decade ago. He enjoys his busy days, and his restaurant is the largest of its kind in Hougang. He continues to be proud of his achievements and feels it is meaningful to carry on this long tradition, keeping the flavor of his hometown and providing a sense of belonging for the locals.

Every day begins extremely early. He wakes up at 1:30 am to prepare the soup, which needs to simmer gently for two and a half hours, ready to satisfy the first batch of customers around 4:30 am.

Zhou usually naps after lunch and then goes to the elderly local farmers' houses to pick up sheep for the next day. He spends several hours cleaning and cooking the freshest meat. When the day turns to dusk, it marks Zhou's bedtime, day after day, week after week.

"Every day is busy, but also fulfilling," says Zhou, with a smile.

Today, the locals no longer need such a special meal to power them up for work. It has gradually become a common daily meal and, furthermore, a bond connecting people rooted in this Hougang.

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